Shrikhand Mahadev

The term here is Mountain's Calling

Sitting in Thanedar June this year, I could not help but get awed by a magnificent snow covered mountain range to my right. The resort manager added to my knowledge, that it’s called Shrikhand Mahadev, lies in Kullu district and that a yatra happens every year. I wanted to go. JUST LIKE THAT.

Come August, and meeting with sister Sukhmani and her husband Pankaj (who runs a camp in Kasol, Himachal Pradesh) for some discussion, that I so happened to discuss with Pankaj what I recently saw and what my intentions were. I was met with an excited reply that he had already done Shrikhand Mahadev six times, and it being been many years since his last, he would love to do it again. September 7 being the pay day, I proposed that we leave on September 8.

to Jaon

Read a thing or two about Shrikhand Mahadev on Google and life moved on. Didn’t apply much head; when the time came just did what I had to do (buying gear) and on 8 September hit the road, as planned. Last minute change would be two youngsters accompanying Pankaj, who work as DJ’s in his camp. How important it would be to have two added people in the group, I was to know in days to come. As I started from Chandigarh, others started from Kasol, and we all RV’ed at Sainj. Crossed Satluj at Rampur Bushahr, parked my car and the group moved together to Baghipul and the last village – Jaon. Pankaj belongs to the area; him being a local was a much celebrated help to unlock the locks of guest house late into night. The rum was smooth and dinner hot & delicious – a sweet memory for the coming six days.

start (L-R): self, Pankaj, Rohit, Animesh

Day 1 - September 9

Morning weather was clear and Shrikhand top could be seen from village Jaon. We sorted stuff equally among the four of us (personal belongings, sleeping bag, tents, sleeping mats, gas stove, ration and dry ration, water bottles) with each rucksack ending up weighing 25 kgs+. It was quarter to ten when we left the metalled road, down the trail starting our trek. Must have been an hour into the walk to reach our first benchmark and the last village enroute - Singh Gad. The terrain was fairly easy this far with slight ups and downs, yet with rucksacks on shoulders, sweat was in abundance. Next stop was to be Barhaati Naala - a dera for Sadhu's/Baba's.

map at Barhaati Naala dera

A traveller here is fondly referred as BHAKT JI, offered free food, sweetened water (Roohafaza) and place to rest. Name and contact details are entered in register - a practice to keep track of all making the climb. After short rest, amid chants of JAI BHOLE we started our climb to Thachru. The real trek began from here. To help imagine - you can see that there is this mountain covered with forest, what you cannot see is its top - its so high that after a certain altitude the treeline ends, but you are no way near the top. The rocky face then shows up; you climb it and then you reach the top which is called Kaali Ghati. It took us one and a half days to do this distance. Thachru comes after crossing approximately 95% of forest, however the climb is very steep and straight plus with added weight of rucksacks; it was one step at a time. The day was spent pacing ourselves without wasting too much time on rest and by nightfall we had to camp within the jungle gaining an altitude of 1200 metres for the day.

Day 2 - September 10

Woke up to sounds of rainfall amplified inside the tent. Beknown to us that next water source is near Kaali Ghati, the steep climb got better of us the previous day and we were running short on water.

Camp 1

Pankaj made some crevices in the tent to collect rain water, filtered with handkerchief and boiled to make coffee. With two boys sleeping in their tent, we both sipped coffee discussing about route further. In one moment, our tongues went silent at a distinct sound from afar -  a bear growl. As Pankaj sprang out to check on proximity, I became totally aware of my surroundings anticipating what comes next. Another growl - but no movement, no bear. Amidst forest with wildlife in abundance, it could have been anywhere - however we concluded it was never close as it allowed us to operate normally. Rains went on until mid-day and we used this time well to fill bottles with precious water.

water collection

The start thereafter was slush, but thankfully the climb was not incessant steep and were provided gradual slopes. Post 300 metres of altitude gain, we finally reached Thachru our target for previous day. From here, one can clearly see Parvati Bagh and Shrikhand. As Pankaj tried to show what was where, I deliberately did not register for the simple fact that it all made the trek look gargantuan - my mind didn't need that. A short climb further, the treeline finally ended and so the view changed. Clear weather and one can see one range after another after another - I could even see Thanedar, the place where it all started.

MAGGI prep

Exhausted, the group halted for - best in class nutrition - MAGGI. It is then, in that state, in that moment, with that view before your eyes and hot noodles making their way in - that you look at your rucksack with politeness, and claim that its ok, its worth it. Reached Kaali Ghati, payed our respects and started descent. The official routes have red and yellow markings, giving an indicative of the path to follow; however since the original path was swept by a landslide, we found an alternate way which entailed climbing down a cliff face - my first. Reaching Bheem Tlai in day light we rushed to setup camp for the night. The usual exercise would include setting up tents, gathering wood for fire, cook/eat dinner near fire, gaze at starry sky in the night and good night.

Camp - Bheem Tlai

Day 3 - September 11

By now certain facts were clear about the team. Pankaj and Rohit both coming from hills were natural to the terrain, I was having no complaints thus far, Rohit was going slow owing to flat sole shoes deceitfully sold to him. Having a few slips on descent, the lad had lost his confidence, however kept moving slow and steady. The day was bright and beautiful and

enroute Bheem Dwar

with inputs from Pankaj that the climb hereon was GENTLE, the spirits were high. From Bheem Tlai the landscape is that of grasslands; you cross one ridge then another then another until the final turn and Bheen Dwar presents itself to you. We discussed enroute that it would be better to halt at Bheem Dwar than Parvati Bagh (our original destination), as there was no point climbing the steep mountain with all the weight, when we could cover up by starting an hour early next morning.

Bheem Dwar view post storm

No sooner had we found our spot for camp (underneath an overhanging mountain rock) did it start to rain heavily with thunderstorm. Strong gusty winds, chilled raindrops and loud crack of thunder - Shrikhand welcome party was well on time and tempo. Trying not to focus on what lay ahead the next day, we got stove into action - cooked Nutri with soup - lifted spirits up and quit the body shiver. Post twenty minutes the weather cleared up, and fresh snow cover lay on our route for the next day. Rohit (our wood scout) was quick to find wood from nearby abandoned encampments before the daylight went out.

Bheem Dwar bonfire with Shrikhand in background

The good/bad thing about youngsters is that they hardly take anything seriously. This attribute was good for us today, as both boys were involved in their banter and hardly anyone was talking of the summit day. The older you get, the more life is sucked off you and serious you become. Young and silly is good at times - keeps the innocence alive - and like in this case, helps surmount difficult days with minimum notice.

Day 4 - September 12

Everyone woke up at stipulated time of 0330 hours and quick black coffee helped move us out the tents. Everything was left behind as it is, and we carried one rucksack with bare essentials - water and dry ration. By 0400 hours the four of us with our headlights lighting the trail, were on our way to summit amid cry of HAR HAR MAHADEV. None having experience of walking the mountains in dark, Pankaj the veteran, was in lead. After two water crossings the climb started. For a while there was track which we followed, then  it meandered into grass on which we were crawling our way up in total darkness. After sometime, my mind GPS kicked in and suggested that we might be on a wrong mountain - tried to alert Pankaj, but he was pretty sure that we were on the right one. Then, on our right, from another mountain we could see a flashlight blinking - I was convinced, that we were on wrong mountain and so was Pankaj. By the time it was official that we were on the wrong path, we had climbed way up top and going down was not an option. The whole plan of summit seemed FUBAR by now.

the routes

However, credit to Pankaj who did not stop to discuss or contemplate - instead went about finding new route through the uncharted mountain. As the day broke, we were hopeful to reach Parvati Bagh (through a new way) and soon did as well. The misadventure had cost us an hour, however, with clear weather and visible route markers we now were confident to reach the top. Making our way through rocks and water streams, patches of snow started showing up which in turn slowed Animesh. We reached Nain Sarovar, to find it completely frozen, surrounded with snow covered mountains.

Nain Sarovar

Filled water bottles from a crack in lake and the climb started again. A group from Uttar Pradesh, which had camped in Parvati Bagh the night before had started ahead of us and we could see them climbing the steep snow covered slope which now lay ahead, for us to charge on. Barely 30 minutes in, slipping a few times in snow - Animesh quit - he sat there, asked us to leave and take him on the way back. Another 10 minutes and Pankaj coaxed him to move atop and then see how it goes. Atop, seeing one member of Uttar Pradesh having given up and going down was not an encouraging site, however having the advantage of youth/vigour/cockiness, we shrugged doubt aside and kept moving. When asked how much further - Pankaj would say, just a little more after this mountain; when asked how the terrain is - he would say, it gets a little gentle after this slope and then further climb. Not once, he let us know of what exactly lay ahead.

Pankaj (in greens) coaxing Animesh

By now, Animesh had given up countless times and Pankaj had coaxed him just as many times. In between he had a bout of AMS and started yapping, but was promptly pulled out. Pankaj was guiding Animesh, each step (yaaha paer rakh......yaaha danda lga) through the way even to the extent of pulling him up with his own stick. A terrain where picking your own weight is a challenge - pulling someone upside along (as a team), is highly rare and highly commendable. Now we were walking in complete snow - reaching one mountain top walking to another, then climbing it and so on.

making way up

Weather had turned gloomy by the time we reached Bheem Ki Paudi and terrain kept getting scarier. Amid fog we maintained our pace and kept following footsteps of the group ahead.

first views - Shrikhand Mahadev

Finally - a turn around the hill - and we had first views of summit - Shrikhand Mahadev. By then, Uttar Pradesh group was making its way down and their porter crew advised us not to spend more than 30 minutes up top. After more than 10 hours of walking (lost and found) we all made it to Shrikhand top (16900 ft) at 1430 hours.

the group at Shrikhand Mahadev

All offered our prayers and respect, however were not lucky enough to get clear weather to see the much revered 360 degree view of mountain ranges around. Soon enough it started to snow and we took shelter at Parvati cave, in a bid to tide the weather. All this while - we were just walking and focus was just on the next step and next and next. But no sooner I sat and time progressed, (mind kicked in) I was horrified with the idea of going down the same terrain, now covered in fresh snow and with Animesh's speed and day closing up fast - I was sure that others minds were playing as well. With body shivering ceaselessly, I proposed that we stay the night in cave and make our way back in morning. Although Pankaj went looking for fire material - bamboos and ghee (offering at Linga), but failed to find much. After almost an hour of wait, the weather started to clear up and Pankaj suggested that we start our way down as survival here in our current scenario was a remote possibility.

Parvati cave

1540 hours - we started our way back down. The route markers by now were covered in snow and footsteps of earlier group had started to diminish; thankfully we had sun guiding us. Slowly and gradually, not loosing calm and just focusing on next step we all made down to our first mountain top of the day. By now it was sundown and we were left with last minutes of dimming day light. On way up, my left knee hit a rock and the pain which was minimal, was now gaining my attention. It was short of Nain Sarovar in pitch darkness, when I broke news of my handicap to the group. As pain kept increasing, I had to stop for break often and so did the group. It was around 2000 hours when I suggested that I stay behind (under a rock for cover), as weather was clear it would be possible and that I be taken by someone in morning. Proposal promptly turned down, Pankaj alternately suggested to light up fire right there, rest and then take a call. Two walking sticks were broken and a fire lit in the middle of trail. There was a growing sense of urgency within me, as everyone (already exhausted) were delayed because of me. I popped three pills of pain killer and warmed my leg by the fire. How much of a soul lifter fire is in those terrains and conditions, I cannot tell you. By 2200 hours, I declared fit to walk with added help and we resumed our journey down. Pankaj supported me with a hand as we made our way across big rocks and boulders. Reached Parvati Bagh in an hour and tried if we could stay in tents of Uttar Pradesh group - it was packed. Kept going down the official route, holding hand and slowly making way through the steep slope. It was 0045 hrs - after more than 21 hours of trekking, did we reach back to our camp at Bheem Dwar. It wasn't completely over yet.

cap return

To our surprise, we found our tents occupied as four Bhakts from Theog had cozied their way into our sleeping bags. Must have been late in the evening, when they saw us (occupants of tents) not having returned, they presumed we weren't coming back tonight and made themselves at home saving the trouble of erecting one of their own. Having vacated, and apologized the foursome group stood and discussed their course of action as we warmed ourselves by the stove. Few moments later, we heard cry of HAR HAR MAHADEV and Theog group had started their way up at 0115 hours.

Bheem Dwar camp

Day 5 - September 13

Woke up to find the mission accomplished but not over. What happened the previous day and how it was accomplished, didn't quite register and neither I was in hurry to. Appetite had dried up completely and I popped in another set of pain killers. The Uttar Pradesh group was now returning and complimented us on their way - AAPKE UPAR BHOLE NATH KI FULL POWER HAI. Their porter party stopped to chat as Pankaj made acquaintance over cigarette. As it turned out, their leader Ram Lal had worked in Chandigarh for donkey years.

porter group - Ram Lal gesturing

A little bit of humanity never dies - as porters agreed to take a tent of ours down to Thachru knowing that I had knee pain. Soon we started our way back and journey to Thachru through Kaali Ghati was uneventful except my stomach starting to get upset. Eating one painkiller after the other, on empty stomach, for two straight says was now showing its effects. Kept going irrespective and had my mind busy in details of local flora and fauna which Pankaj would so often stop and tell me about. Camped at Thachru for the night beside the Uttar Pradesh group, and my body was shutting down by now. The porters on their own accord, offered us food - blessed Daal Chaawal which stabilised my system and allowed me to walk next day.

Thachru camp

Day 6 - September 14

The feet were sore and descent was steep. With complete load on knees while descending, pain could only be ignored as pastures of home motivated to keep going. By noon when we reached Barhaati Naala, blisters were all over the feet and it was important that momentum be maintained. By then airwaves too found their way to cellphone and people back home were much relieved to hear after six days of zero communication. Post noon we reached Jaon, we reached civilization. Although advised to stay put, I knew my state and persisted that I return home the same day itself. I bid adieu to the group and left Rampur Bushahr at 1730 hours arriving base at 0015 hours.

I wanted to pen the sequence and get done with it, as its been more than week since my return to flats and things are just not making sense. I am aware of the hangover and that the time it would take for me to tide it over would depend on the intensity of the trip experience; which am still not aware of. Right now it just seems like a whirlwind tour through a tough terrain (level Extreme). Got to know two new youngsters and more importantly, got to know my brother in law (Pankaj) through this trip. Realised the few people whom I love - who just flashed through my eyes when faced with survival. Realised how wrong the whole system is, how inhumanly possible we are living. Realised that ranks, castes, levels all go flat when faced with death - the only underlying thread is we all are humans and all divisions are man/mind made and don't exist in face of reality. I know we all have read and heard this countless times, but it gets a whole new meaning when having experienced it. I realised that things that we need for survival - air, water, fire - are provided free and in abundance. I realised that there are just too many of us (population wise) and that is the principal reason for enforced control, dying morals, dead humanity and non existent love.

The whole direction of life that the system teaches us is wrong. We are not here to work, to reproduce and then to work for the reproduced. We are here to support each other by means of work, not exploit each other. Life is to be a bliss not the trauma that system has made for so many of us. The more you get aware the more the fight and more you disassociate from the system. I am thankful that I was given the time/opportunity to bid my heart's call and I pray for more in times to come.

Blessings to all from Lord Shiva

HAR HAR MAHADEV