Initiation

Once a year go someplace you’ve never been before – Dalai Lama

Replaced the old Ford Endeavour with the current latest, a month back. Having a 3.2 litre, 5 cylinder motor, with AWD Automatic and all those off-roading capabilities explained by the sales people – there was an itch to put all to test.

 

the TITANIUM 3.2

Dusehra and weekend around the corner, the window of opportunity was perfect to let pass. Further stimulus provided by a turbulent Tuesday, and decided to unplug Wednesday, was on my way Thursday. Self and Endeavour made it only till Rampur Bushahr on day one, thanks to broken Shimla highway and chaotic Shimla traffic. Nice and easy ride nothing to mention here, just that it was the last of places to see the shine on metal. In 2008 bike ride, we could go up till Pooh and had to return as road further was closed due to blocked Maling Nala – I had to avenge U turn of 2008. The hydel projects around Karcham are around complete now; however the road condition is just as 2008. To see a whole face of the mountain sheared and replaced by thick concrete wall – one wonders on capability of human mind. 

Spiti Valley

Pooh came and that was the last of phone network to be had. Entered Spiti Valley and halted a while to take in the view. Nothing to be had on way, I had to make a stop at first dhaba/eatery/cafe, which happened to be at Nako. Although there are many places around to go visit, I kept moving straight as I had a route and timeline in place. Halted for night at Tabo – stoned hotel manager Shesh Ram took good care of my needs along with his cook from Bihar – great food for that place. Thank You. Next morning I was off to Kaza and anybody who has seen those terrains would testify that the contrast of mountains and clear blue sky are just naturally photo shopped. Beautiful. With all the rutty and bumpy tracks that I had encountered so far, it was about time for payback – and paid back I was, in full. Came a stretch which was as good as a dirt track and with brake/accelerate happening since last day, it was ideal for some decent speeds given the AWD of truck. Right there and then, it was just the mountains, the river, the sky, I with my toy and not a soul in sight. I had been provided with my much needed exclusive playground. I wish I had a drone to cover the drive, it would have been a crazy footage with Endeavour manoeuvring the terrain with ease, leaving behind a cloud of fine dust. It was so fun, I can only thank for the experience.

Kunzum Pass - go left come right

Refuelled at Kaza and didn’t waste time to move as I knew what lay ahead at Kunzum Pass. At the pass I was vehemently pointed out by a local to stop. Apparently, I was going wrong around the shrine – you go from the left and come from the right as in clockwise direction. Not knowing the logic and not wanting to take the wrath of goddesses that be, I did as asked. The weather had now started to pack up and I wondered when it would show its colours. Stopped at Batal for much needed food break and didn’t waste a moment to restart. Shortly thereafter, black clouds were moving towards Batal, temperatures dropped to 1 degrees and I had snowflakes falling on the screen. As I stopped to make a video, in heart I wished good luck to all the travellers making merry at Batal – taking selfies with poses – and I pushed through the terrain. Took us two hours to reach Chhatru; just 32kms from Batal. The very next day Raid-de-Himalaya rally had to pass the same route. I had checked before start and timed myself such, that I didn’t get stuck in the rally. As I made my way, I was looking for familiar faces as service crew vans were making their way to Kaza. At the last point, where I had to make my turn at Gramphoo I found my old service crew stopped for tea. It was good to check on Nirmal and guys as I updated them on road conditions behind. Shared tea, shook hands, wished them well and was back on road again. Refuelled at Tandi and stopped at Keylong – the same hotel where I stayed three months back on my bus trip. I was nostalgic.

Diversion from Tandi

Next morning took diversion from Tandi for Udaipur. This stretch was new, never traversed by me before and I had a few directions to reach where I intended. The beauty of unknown unseen is that your senses are high; awareness is all up waiting in anticipation as to what lies around the next corner. Reached Udaipur’s Parkash Dhaba and had a good breakfast of aaloo pratha, egg bhurji and chai – which was to be the last of it for a really long time. Post Udaipur road was all dirt track, rocky and rutty in between and narrow at some places. Came across a beautiful bamboo door covered with leaves, welcoming us to the much heard Pangi Valley. With dirt tracks all around, twice took wrong tracks only to correct and return. Alone, it was quite a task backing up truck on those roads; the view of the road edge from rear view camera screen really gave the shivers. Took diversion from Killar, downhill, across the bridge and climb of Sach Pass began. Very scenic on the way up, although terrain was just the opposite. In my view, the 35kms of climb to the top was quite technical and seemed never ending. Driving alone on this stretch, you hope that you don’t encounter an oncoming vehicle in a patch where there is room for just one. It’s challenging to back up and make way for the other especially with that dreaded rear camera view. Happened a few times though, and am here to tell the tale.

Sach Pass

Reached Sach Pass and paid our respects at the shrine atop – we were brought there protected. With the view of high snow clad mountains, strong chilly winds, no other man or machine in sight or sound, it was eerie when a crow kowwed and took flight from a distance. I started with descent. Paths on descent are wider and relatively smooth and the view of mountain ranges – which you have to let go for else its magnanimity would just consume you. Came across HP Police post where me and mine were not only searched, but video graphed as well. Apparently, the road from Killar has a junction where road from Kishtwar joins and given the disturbance in J&K it was a security procedure in the area – my first though. The first habitation on the way down – Bairagh – and I stopped for the night. Nice comfortable stay and started the last stretch next morning, going through Koti - Banikhet – Pathankot – Chandigarh. Excellent stretch between Banikhet and Pathankot, might do it on the Harley. 

All through the trip, truck was on normal mode AWD – not once did I have to change modes for lack of power or grip. There was ample power in store for those terrains and tachometer never crossed 2500 rpm in whole journey. In all humility, it leaves me with a good feeling that even these hard terrains were not enough for my machine. I would say, in this journey, both the truck and myself sized each other up. Am happy to know what sounds she makes, when and how she responds where. Never wanted to keep her like a new bride who is all out with her best foot forward (which never lasts); I’d rather live with reality. With this trip of 1350kms spanned over five days (map link), we now both know what to expect from each other. Hopefully this marriage would work.

with the Initiated

With the Endeavour initiated - Yes - his holiness’s words hold true.