Kya se Kya ho gya..

It was year 2021 when I and Sonia had taken the Zanskar route to Leh - it was a trip of many passes; five years have gone by since and time simply hasn't registered. Work had me to be in Leh the previous week, and at a short notice I planned the whole thing out - incorporating much of my observations from previous trip, I wanted to put the thesis to test. Among the said observations, one was that Leh - Chandigarh can be done in one day and other was Siachen glacier, which seemed so near yet so far; whence in Nubra need to be visited.

As per the information, I was to find one or two 24/7 petrol pumps in Manali and based on this intel I launched on road at 2030 hrs preponing my scheduled departure by 2.5 hours. My way, I was to hit Tandi by 0600 next day for refuelling as soon as the pumps opened, however the new intel made me depart early. As I found out, there are one or two 24/7 coffee shops enroute Manali, but no fuel pump giving N95 at that hour of the day. The drive to the tunnel through the mountains approaching Atal Tunnel was a bit spooky being the only lights on the road with overhanging trees - reminded me of Vikram Baital sic. Was a bit surprised to see the tunnel totally by its itself - not a soul in sight, no cops guarding it or directing traffic which they so possessively do during daytime - none, zilch. It was me, the Jeep and the tunnel - none other whatsoever in the 9.2 km journey across it, albeit the lonely cop covered all the way from bottom to top, with only eyes visible in the prevailing temperatures. I think he too was posted there due to the recent accident at North Portal whereby a Scorpio simply flew over the guard rails, landing onto abutting iron bars of an under construction bridge. 

Atal Tunnel - South Portal 0222hrs

Tandi guys were up and running at that hour to my pleasant surprise, which was short lived as I came to know that N95 was not available due to a tank leak. I found the fuel pump at Keylong and parked myself there for a 2.5 hour wait until the pump opened at 0600. That break tired me more than rejuvenating, on the go I was just fine but that gap just jeopardised the whole flow. Fuelled up and I was on the road by 0630 and up the Shinkula Pass onto Zanskar; as it was Sunday the road was open for civil traffic on Wednesday and Sunday. Past Padum, then Zangla found the turn through which me and Sonia had diverted to Singhe La pass in 2021 and vividly recalled the current road as just stones and dirt with one machine hammering away at the mountains not far off. A red flag was all there was to direct a no-go. Now the same stony dirt track is a tarmac road with two lanes, guard rails and marker lines - springing the thought - KYA SE KYA HO GYA DEKHTE DEKHTE.

Between Zangla and Chilling

Beautiful mountains, my first through this part of Ladakh, What texture, gloss and colors they have - I had to stop and take a picture and believe you me with so many years travelling the Himalayas, it really takes something to make me stop and click. I checked into my spacious room at Leh by 1600 hours.

Thereafter was unexpected headache that lasted until next day noon - I realised that not stopping as I climbed up to Leh, I did not allow my body to acclimatise and hence the ache. Point noted. Next two days, did all I was there to do and thereafter headed to Diskit to do my site visit. Had a pleasant evening with Sourav and discovered another side of Diskit, which till now was neither in my knowledge or experience. I believe the place has much more to offer than just touch and go - for next time, it is something to be done.

Diskit evening

Next day, the plan was to head to Siachen basecamp and then push back to Leh - as scheduled, both I and Jeep were on our way across the valley to Siachen. The approach is quite desolate, a narrow road reminiscent of old days with only a fraction of traffic as compared to Diskit/ Hunder side. The day was to mark as this trips crescendo, as we were to be the farthest as we have ever been, in a completely uncharted territory - having said that, discipline and basics of driving in mountains kept the trip not only safe but also on time.

Got registered at army checkpoint post at entry number 5, got instructions on dos and do nots and crossed the military Bailey bridge. Left was the war memorial, where I was promptly stopped by the 8 Grenadier jawan since I was wearing shorts - he said the dress code was trousers only. I stood where I was, and seeing me not arguing and agreeing with the protocol while mentioning that I wasn't aware of it, he came down and gave me his cyclostyled speech right there and then. Thanked him and had him click my pic, and off we were to OP Baba mandir. The history of the said mandir can be well googled by the reader, I saw OP Baba residence where a jawan had just laid a fresh plate of food in front of his picture. Traditions of the Indian Army - I paid my respects and started my return with gratitude of being able to visit. 

at Siachen Base Camp War Memorial

OP Baba mandir

Reached Leh by evening and as Stan suggested that the road is now open seven days a week - took the Zanskar Chilling route. Started by 0500 and 14.5 hours later was back home, much to the relief of family. It still has not registered the kind of terrains I have traversed in 14.5 hours - but it does seem I lived a lot, in a crazy short period of time.

Jeep did good, and I was lucky to make way safe despite ongoing rains - although rains this year are patchy and not voluminous, yet you cannot assume a thing in the mountains. Truly grateful to be able to do this successfully, this fills some thing somewhere inside.

Thank You.